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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.